p r e s e n t s
North West Tuscany for the Independent Tourist
IN PICTURES
Tour 22: Borgo a Mozzano, a Gothic Line,
and a Glorious San Rocchino
In direct contrast to neighboring Bagni di Lucca’s decidedly outgoing nature, Borgo a Mozzano presents a distinctly inward looking profile. Blink and you will miss it as you belt your way up-and-down the Sergio valley going to-and-from Lucca. 
But just as residents and visitors alike enthusiastically embraced Bagni’s charming lichen covered genteelness, so the same should be said of the residents of Borgo, minus perhaps the genteel aspect, for there it must be said, characteristics tend to differ. Borgo a Mozzano manages somehow to go about its business practically unnoticed by, and clearly quite unbothered about, the tourist whirlwind going on all about them. I doubt in fact that very many outsiders would discover the place at all if it were not for the miraculous Devil’s Bridge perched, quite at odds with its surroundings, out on the far northern edge of town. 
It would however be a grave error to pass over a visit to this polite little community for not only can Borgo boast several fine restaurants, it is also in possession of a magnificent public swimming pool, and a World War Two museum tightly encased within the old railway station building. The German Gothic Line, or at least part of it – the only part still in existence apparently – runs right around the edge of town. 
Furthermore you can visit both in one fell swoop, with a tour of the museum and an extensive rummage through the almost untouched tunnels and bunkers of the German’s fabled last ditch defenses. It can even claim the only local milk dispensing shed that I personally have ever witnessed. Great, really great milk too! But what’s more…. only by pulling off that infernal damn racetrack of a road and slowing down sufficiently enough to catch your turn… only then will you see just what an exquisite, dense, misty, verdant bowl of a valley this busy little town nestles within. Of course I wouldn’t expect anyone to stick around for an entire month, as did I in June of 2014, but if you were to pause on the tour I can tell you from delightful experience… you would do very well to base yourself at San Rocchino. Situated just a short walk from town this gorgeous, and gorgeously run, 
guesthouse will very soon win its way into your heart. You can read my account of this remarkably peaceful and friendly place by clicking here, or you can simply make up your mind to one day pick up the phone, call the number, and book your very own Enchanted San Rocchino experience. Please enjoy your scroll, and watch out for your head when navigating the tunnels.
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Following the tour in the literal sense? Then pick a town in North West Italy, any town. Click on Wikipedia, enter its name and stand back: information flies at you in such abundance that selective filtering techniques must be utilized in the face of so many facts, factoids, dates, histories, famous residents past and present. You name it.
Type in Borgo a Mozzano however and this is what you get: “Borgo a Mozzano is dominated by the presence of Ponte della Maddalena also called “del Diavolo” (Devil’s Bridge). The Devil’s Bridge is located on the SP2 one kilometer north of downtown. The bridge’s majestic structure attracts thousands of tourists every year. The town of Borgo a Mozzano is centrally located between the Garfagnana and the Lucchesia, and can be easily reached by car with the SS12 “Brennero” or the SP2 “Lodovica”. The nearest major airport (50 min drive) is the Galileo Galilei International Airport of Pisa. Also, the town has its own train station served by the line Lucca-Aulla. Finally, an efficient bus system connects Borgo a Mozzano with the city of Lucca and the rest of the Garfagnana.” And that’s it. So, you get the idea – we are in under the radar as it were.
Something tells me you are going to enjoy the casual formality exuded by this busy little community. ‘Polite’ is the term I used above, and I’ll use it again here, for while I was certainly made very welcome by the locals, a respectful air of distance is maintained at all times. The month I spent here in Borgo was matched in length with my time in Pietrasanta, and while paradise was indeed found at Bar Avio, nothing quite of the same magnitude was attained during my time in Borgo. But on the other hand I really wasn’t looking for it, Borgo’s laid-back coolness was fine with me, with so much time to myself I was free to read, to write, and to float around San Rocchino’s fabulous pool to my heart’s content.
My suggestion would be to base yourself in San Rocchino and take the train: explore Lucca, Pisa… even Florence lies within easy reach thanks to the popular hourly service. And so enjoy your stay… your little rest-bite, for after this we are off to busy old Pistoia for a wonderful bout of market stall shopping (yep)…. museum wandering, and church going… very ancient church going I might add. From there its over to Lucca, and then Pisa, and that’s it – the North West Tuscan Way In Pictures will have closed the loop and circled a land that, in large parts, time would seem to have quite forgot. Pisa is where we began, and Pisa is where we will end up.
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Devil’s Bridge
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Borgo a Mozzano
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Local Milk Vending Hut
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The Gothic Line
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Borgo a Mozzano WWII Museum
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Brazillian Volunteers
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US Buffalo Soldiers
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Views From San Rocchino
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Entrance to San Rocchino
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San Rocchino
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and now
the slideshow
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to Monica… superb host, lovely person
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thanks for visiting martincooney.com
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next
The North West Tuscan Tour: In Pictures
Tour 23: Pistoia, Tuscan City of Life
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thanks for visiting martincooney.com
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Μ∇ℜΤ¡Ν
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