Every Village Needs a Market Town Close By, So Let’s Take a Stroll Down Council Grove’s Picturesque Main Street, Just 15 Miles Down the Road, Where We Alta Vistans Go to Shop, Relax and Submerge Ourselves in Sante Fe Trail History

Alta Vista is fortunate in many ways, not least its proximity to the charming and historic town of Council Grove. And when I say historic, I mean ancient in comparative terms, for this cozy little town of just over two thousand souls traces its origins all the way back to the eighteen twenties, which is positively pre-historic west of the Mississippi.

Click on any photo to enlarge.

It all began as early travelers on the newly created Santa Fe Trail began to leave notes to one another within the cracks and crevices of a mighty eighty-foot-tall oak tree that became a sort of post office by which information regarding the path people were taking, or the conditions the trail was in, was passed to those following them, or for sending notes back home to loved ones or instructions to come on out. It became known as the Post Office Oak, but no stamped letters were left there.

For unlike the nearby Oregon Trail, which also emanated from the town of Independence – just the other side of today’s Kansas City – the Sante Fe Trail, beginning in Franklin, Missouri, was traversed by people heading in both directions. Mexicans came up from the south, traded their goods locally, then returned along the same route. Similarly, Missourians and traders from further east drove their wagons southwest along the trail then returned after selling and trading their wares in Santa Fe, to be sold upon their return.

So, it was busy going both ways, thus the need grew for an unofficial post office here at the start of the trail proper. For, once departed from Council Grove, almost 700 miles of dry dusty plains separated would be traders from their New Mexican destination – with not a single amenity to serve them along the way. In fact, just west of town stands a small stone building that pretty much says it all: The Last Chance Store. It was here that travelers would take stock and ensure they had enough bacon, flour, coffee, tobacco and other vital necessities for everyone to make it.

But it was the treaty signed on August 10^th, 1825, that gave Council Grove its name when a delegation of US Commissioners and Osage Tribal Chiefs signed a treaty under the council oak to establish the right-of-way for the Santa Fe Trail to cross Osage lands.

Conveniently enough, the actual tree that early travelers on the trail used to tuck their little messages in – or at least part of it – has been preserved, protected by a huge umbrella-like wooden covering right outside the appropriately named Post Office Museum, suggesting the appearance of a giant brown portabella mushroom. And it is here that we begin our virtual tour of Council Grove, as I suggest that you do too if and when you visit the place for yourself. Entrance is free of charge, as are all the town’s museums it seems, for then you will benefit from an excellent briefing provided by an informed curator on the town prior to discovering it for yourself.

It’s strange to think of all those adventurous people carefully shoving their various bits of paper within the folds and holes of this mighty oak, and I wonder just how many heartfelt letters ever met the eyes of their intended target, but it must have offered at least some hope to those carefully choosing their spot among the crevices.

The museum building itself was built by a German immigrant as a duplex in 1864, and is crammed with interesting artifacts, as you might well imagine, but it also boasts a native stone arched-roof, man-made cave in the basement to store beer and act as a root cellar, which I thought fascinating. You actually descend down a wide staircase to the side of the building right into the ground and into the cellar where I swear the lingering odors of long-lost beer kegs still reside.

This being the starting point of your Main Street tour I would resist the temptation to rush off across the bridge and dive into the main attraction, as it were, and take a wander around the immediate vicinity of the museum, for there is a fair bit to see to the rear of the structure that will set the mood for what you are about to explore. This is a distinctly agricultural community, and the various old run-down buildings and rusty equipment will tell an illuminating story of their own, so as to assess the uptown Main Street in its proper perspective.

Nothing is marked or labelled to spoil the effect, so you’ll be free to simply wander around and take it all in. After all, it is all very self-explanatory; the old station building, the various rusty metal farming machines, if you stare at them for long enough you can actually see and hear the people who used to attend to them. And they must have been very robust folks, judging from the weight and heft of these cumbersome contraptions, so all credit to those whose skill and hard work, back in the day, made them come to life.

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Upon leaving the museum grounds and heading west along the old Sante Fe Trail, the first of two imposing statues loom into view. It consists of an enormous, buxom, bonnet headed mother holding a baby in the cleft of her arm, with a toddler clinging to her leg. And I must say, she is one big, tall, strong woman, revealing a left leg of athletic proportion, as she stares down the trail with determination etched on her more than capable face. It’s difficult to tell just what variety of stone the carving was created from – it looks as though it could have been molded, and one day I’ll check to see – but there is no bed in the stone that I could detect. (I have recently learned that the material, a cast composite stone called “Aldonite” was selected before the sculptor was chosen and the design approved.)

The limestone plinth reveals that the sculpture was financed by the Daughters of the American Revolution and is a tribute to the Pioneer Mothers of the Covered Wagon Days. Which strikes me as a bit odd in that the more famous trail just to the north of this one – the Oregon Trail – was indeed traversed by many such women, as they were going one way, east to west, to resettle in the Oregon Territories. Whereby those on the Sante Fe Trail were almost all daring traders planning on returning with their earnings and traded goods. And they were nearly all men. But it is a great, huge imposing statue, I’ll give them that.

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Heading over the road leading north to Alta Vista and Manhattan (The Little Apple), we are struck by the equally imposing, but almost intimidating bronze recreation of a Kaw Indian Brave, whose silhouette is outlined against the sun in dramatic fashion. Cradled in his arm is a long pipe, his hair a slick mohawk, muscles flashing, an intense stare governs his face – this is one powerful human being. His gaze is directed south, in the direction of the Neosho River, which we will cross as we enter the Main Street proper, with shops, restaurants, cafes, banks, businesses, a newspaper, a covered wagon and all that makes a quintessential small Midwest American Town.

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Crossing the modern bridge, we are provided with a panoramic view of the Neosho River that dissects the town. What it not visible is the massive dam a mile or two upriver that not only provides the area with a huge lake, complete with campsites, boat ramps and summertime recreational pursuits, but stops this innocent looking stream from catastrophically flooding the town from time to time, as it did before the dam’s completion in 1963.

The adjoining footpath leads pedestrians on a short scenic walk to perhaps the town’s most accomplished attraction – The Kaw Mission, a splendid museum that sheds much light on the early attempts to Christianize Kaw Indian children in the early days of pioneer settlement. By all accounts it proved futile and only lasted a few years until it was converted into a private residence, but it is a beautiful building carved out of local Native Limestone and packed with hours’ worth of engaging displays, factual information and insightful photographs; well worth the stroll, if you ask me.

The covered wagon, painted red and green with a fluffy white cotton canvas top, is a nice touch as it greets people to the downtown business district. And what a nice, wholesome, interesting picture Council Grove presents. In fact, I imagine it would be difficult for travelers passing through on the highway to resist the urge to pull over and explore the sidewalks for themselves.

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First impressions are that Council Grove is quite the cheerful, colorful little Kansas Prairie town with buildings largely of red brick, trim work of white, and lots of shades of earthtones in between.  Second floor windows are generally topped with rounded arches that lend an almost surprised look to their facades, while rooflines are adorned with all sorts of embellishments, as was the fashion at the turn of the nineteenth and twentieth centuries.

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But it is the window displays that grab the attention of course, and what an entertaining spectacle they present. Staring back at us as we peruse the sidewalks we see a huge black bear, an intricately carved colorful Indian bust, a lewd nude Goliath slaying David, a giant bugle playing and drum beating vibrant colored toy soldiers and much, much more. You never know what is going to greet you as you stroll along from one window display to the next. Even the lettering carefully applied to the various windows is crisp and correct – in that it subtly introduces the establishment’s title while complementing the overall appearance of the business.

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Various signs and plaques provide a wealth of information regarding the origins and history of the various buildings, including the locally famous Hays House Restaurant, the roots of which can be traced directly back to 1847 when Seth Hays arrived to trade with the Kaw Indians. His original log building was replaced by this one in 1857, as he apparently did very well selling ‘guns, blankets, flour and tinware’. In fact, according to the sign ‘business was lively’ in that, for instance, in just one four-day period in 1860 the Kaws spent fifteen thousand dollars here and presumably his competitor’s store across the street – the man had a head for business, that’s for sure.

Memorable sights, glimpses of views and picturesque scenes abound, including a bleached out, dilapidated funky old stand up piano for instance, just parked for no reason against a wall a few steps down a side street. It still played, wonkily as you would assume, but with barely any of the black keys in working order; but a simple tune could be coaxed out of it with a little patience.

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Other curiosities include old hand carved stone signs laid here and there telling of former greatness and ultimate decline. Dates and statements of past glory present themselves in cornerstones and huge lumps of rock, and it’s interesting to squat down and read them and their various declarations and commemorations that summon moments lost in time when these weather-stained relics were surrounded by ribbon cutting crowds, fanfare and much excitement.

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How long you spend in this interesting little downtown is of course up to you, but if you were to explore each and every possibility it would perhaps take up most of the day. The excellent fried chicken served up at the famous Hays House is an obvious temptation, but then you would miss out on Sue’s incredible Mennonite dishes at the less conspicuous but totally delicious ‘Taunte Lieseja Café’, an establishment so unassuming that you will need to ask a local just how to get there! And yet, there it is, hidden in plain sight right in the middle of Main Street, at the rear of a delightful female clothing store. Council Grove is just that sort of place – it pays to ask around. Plus, for a town of only a tad over two thousand people, it is positively buzzing with historical sites… an astonishing 25 of them. More historical sites per person in fact than any town in the entire country – so, let that sink in.

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Obviously, to see and do everything that Council Grove has to offer, accommodation of some sort are a must, and the obvious candidate is the splendid, the regal, the quite dazzling Cottage House Motel. Just follow the beautiful sign tempting you away from the main drag one block to what is quite the most flamboyant building in town. A rounded ground floor cupola invites rocking chaired guests to sit a spell and plan or recap their day. Bay windows and covered porches, whitewashed walls and a pointed tower complete the picture and make a compelling case to wander in and pick out a room for yourself, for they vary wildly from simple motel to Western bling.

The neighborhood isn’t that bad either, with a lovely park across the road and similar era large structures providing an authentic feel to the place. However, there are other really nice bed and breakfasts, hotels and motels in the area, but they tend to be outside of the picturesque downtown area, so, check them out all the same, as they look quite nice too, it must be said.

Well, that’s about it for this post. Having only recently moved here ourselves Kris and I are still in the process of discovery when it comes to the lovely, the delightful, rural and historic region they call The Flint Hills. There will be more articles like this appearing here at martincooney.com in the coming weeks, months and years. I hope you enjoyed your tour and will plan your own visit to our new neck of the woods one day. We are only fifteen minutes up the road from Council Grove in Alta Vista – remember that name – Alta, Vista, and we’d love to see you some time. Bye for now.

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Historic Council Grove, Kansas: Alta Vista’s Big Sister

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Thanks for visiting martincooney.com

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